After reading the forecast earlier in the week, we cancelled our tours for this week end with the impending hurricane. Sitting in my Halifax apartment drinking hot coffee, it feels like the appropriate time to write a post about the three day trip I led this past week around Cape Chignecto.
Tuesday morning, with a strong SW wind warning in effect from the marine weather forecast, we decided to launch our usual trip from Spicers Cove to Red Rocks in reverse, mostly providing a tail wind after the initial day. Once the clients arrived, the boats were loaded with their remaining gear and we set off immediately to take advantage of the ebbing tide. Battling a strong headwind for the morning it was an exciting start to our three day journey. The wind didn’t allow for much rest until we reached our first night’s destination of Refugee Cove.
Arriving at low-tide, we had a long haul to carry our boats and gear up above the high tide mark. There was a 26′ tidal difference on this day! The winds were beginning to howl and we arrived just in time to avoid the white capped waves that appeared as the tide flooded back into the bay. Anchoring our tents down by burying rocks attached to lines, we were ready for the foulest weather. Tents taken care of the clients enjoyed an afternoon hike to French lookout, leaving me to set up camp. prep dinner and place out a romantic picnic tablecloth with wine, two glasses and a stunning view.
Waking early on the second day, we packed up camp and were on the water early. We had a deadline as we wanted to round Cape Chignecto at slack tide, avoiding any of the dangerous currents that can occur. The strong wind forecast was still in effect and, to ensure we made it around the point, I gave a little assistance by towing the clients for a small portion. As soon as we turned the last point, Isle Haute was behind us as well as the wind. We floated along comfortably, enjoyed the view of the highest cliffs in mainland Nova Scotia, watched seals scramble from their rocky perches, splashing as they entered the water and rode the rising swell all the way to camp. With a surf landing at Seal Cove, we had arrived at our second stopover. Another excellent afternoon/evening of conversation, wine chilled in a basin at the base of a small cascading waterfall and food. We fell asleep listening to the gravel roll around under the weight of the crashing waves.
On our final day we woke to thick pea-soup fog. The beach had an eery feel and the water was dead calm which, a such a sharp contrast from our previous two days. Paddling in tight to the rocky points and outcroppings, the cliffs’ tops peered out with their base shrouded in fog. With the silence draped over us from the mist, the loon calls seemed amplified as we approached Eatonville. Taking our time, we paddled by the three sisters, the amphitheatre and Anderson’s Cove. Rounding the final point, Cape Squally, we had a pod of porpoises breach beside us with a mature Eagle overlooking us from the rocks. Sitting and enjoying their company was the best possible way to finish our journey together.
I’m excited for the next trip that leaves this Monday, July 7. I’ll be taking two couples from Spicers Cove to Advocate Harbour. The scenery along our route never ceases to impress me, changing with the weather and each tide cycle.
Who would like to come join us for a trip?
Balance. 
amazing